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Hey, are you thinking about buying a Weber Genesis II grill and wondering about the assembly? Well in this video I’m going to show you from start to finish the assembly of my new Weber Genesis II E435 grill, from start all the way from unboxing through till finish. These sassily processes apply to all the Genesis II 300 and 400 series grills. So if you’re in the market for any one of those Genesis II grills, these assembly instructions will also apply to your grill. So, without further ado, let’s get rolling.
These are the tools that you’re going to need for the assembly. This wrench comes with the grill, but I recommend you use a ratchet and a 7/16” socket if you have one because it will save you time. Also, you can use a basic screwdriver. To save time, you can also use a hand drill with a PH3 bit and just make sure you turn your torque down between 8-10 or so because you don’t want to strip out any of the threaded holes. And that’s about all you’re going to need for tools.
We begin with the unboxing. Open up your box. And in the upper right corner of your screen you'll see pages from the actual assembly guide that comes with the Weber Grill. You’re going to see these pages up in some part of the screen during the entire assembly process. Just so you can follow along with the assembly guide and see exactly what the instructions are telling you to do. So here I cut the corners of the box to lay the sides flat on the floor and basically to expose the contents of the grill inside of the box easily. And next I’m going to unpack everything and lay it out, so I have easy access to all the components.
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And finally we’re done unboxing! So now the first part of the assembly is the wheels. Grab the wheels out of one of the boxes that they’re inside of. Dump out the bag full of the different fasteners, and it also includes the wrench that comes in the grill box. And right now I’m looking for bag A because that’s what’s going to have the cotter pins that’s needed for the axle. And also has the fasteners that you’re going to need for the stand assembly, which is next after this. Throw the cotter pin in there and put the first wheel on the axil. Next, grab the 2 sides of the stand. And just feed the axle through the holes on there. And this is the only side you can feed the axle through. The other side doesn’t have holes to accept it so it’s kind of fool-proof here at this point. At this point you can go ahead and grab the other wheel and throw that on there and insert the other cotter-pin. Now that’s secure.
These caps here just snap right in. So you can just go ahead and pop those on.
Alright now it’s time for the casters. And those can’t get any easier, they just pop right in. This is the screw that we’re going to be using to fasten all these other panels into the stand.
Just a little tip here, go corner to corner, just finger-tight. That way it’ll secure it enough for you to go grab the other 2 screws. Then you want to insert those and don’t fully tighten them yet until you have all 4 screws inside them at the same time. And then you can start tightening all 4 of them.
Now this is the fastener the’s going to be used for this other panel. Which is basically the bottom shelf of the grill stand.
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It’s nice because you don’t have to worry about screwing those in. You just pop them into the holes and then they expand and they stay in-place. You’ll definitely need so help on this step. Which is why I had to enlist my little helper to give me a hand. Because there’s no way I could’ve lifted up that panel and got that first hole started by myself. You can see how they go in. You just press the button in and they expand and stay in place.
Now you can flip it over because you’ll be working on the top from this point forward. Just make sure you get the right side.
These are just little bump-stop, little plugs that go into the holes. And this is is the back panel that goes onto the stand. This just gets secured in there with those same expandable plastic fasteners. This is a quick and easy step. You’ll have 4 of those for 4 holes. Just pop them all in.
Alright, next is the side panel. And on this one it’s the one with all the holes in it, and we’re going to mount the fuel gauge. Which is essentially just a scale that weighs the liquid propane tank. Once it starts to get low, it’ll indicate it’s low based on the weight. This is a good feature. I really like this feature of the grill.
I hate trying to guess if, you know, the propane is low or not. These are the fasteners that are going to go on the bottom. Those 2 plastic pieces are basically little bumpers for the bottom of the tank because the tank is going to be hanging off the bottom of that scale. So this keeps the side of the tank off the panel.
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Those just get tightened with a screwdriver on one end and a wrench on the other.
Them it’s time to mount that. That get’s mounted to the side of the stand with 6 screws. Again, just screw the screws in by hand first, finger-tight. And if you have some trouble, you can use a screwdriver, but don’t fully tighten them all down until you have all 6 screws in the holes at a time. Then you can sock them down. Man, I wish I could turn a screwdriver that fast in real-life. I would be unstoppable!
Alright, flip it around and then you’re going to install the other side panel to the sand. This one just takes 4 screws and that’s it.
If you have trouble lining up some of the holes like I do here, you just might have to flex the leg in a little bit to get the holes to align.
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Hey look, my screwdriver broke! Thanks Harbor Freight…
That’s okay, I’ll jut go get the big guns. I’m done with screwdrivers. I’ll use a hand drill instead. Just make sure you turn the torque down on it so you don’t strip out any thread. But if you have a hand drill, I would use that instead, it saves a lot of time.
Okay, now moving on to the cook box. First I'm gonna take the lid off. And you can see it's unbalanced at this point. So I put the stand behind it. And then go ahead and remove the cotter pins from the lid hinge pins. And then you can get those pins out of there. A pair of pliers is going to help out with this step. You don't, they're not required, but they will help a lot. And you just pick off the lid. It's not too heavy, but probably best to have two people do this. I'm stubborn when it comes to that kind of stuff. And we take the cook box and place it on top of
stand. Make sure that the gas lines go to the outside of stand.
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And then these ignition wires, those get routed through the inside of the stand. That's important. That's what it looks like. These are the tools that you're going to need. Now securing the cook box to the stand those two hex screws get them finger tight. And then use the wrench to sock them down. Around back you're gonna need these two screws there. Again, there's these are shoulder screws, and those are only threaded partially so that can screw in all the way. So take a look. See what they're going to look like after you screw them and make sure you don't try to force them all the way in. Remove the bubble wrap from the gas lines. Now this is flexible gas line. So make sure you don't kink this hose at all because if you do, it could break and end up leaking. Just be careful with it. That gets secured on when the screw gets screwed into the back.
Now it's time for the side burner. It’s already starting to come together looking good. Gotta get underneath for this. So hope you're flexible. You grab these brackets right here and those just go over those two threaded studs and the nuts get tightened down around them and then you just got to do that for both sides.
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The left side just gets a regular shelf and that gets secured the exact same way as the sideburn did.
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Now it’s time to connect this small gas line to the side burner. It has a quick disconnect fitting, soon, just go ahead and carefully bring it over there and then pull back on that knurled sleeve on the fitting and just pop it in, make sure it's secure and you’re good to go. Now you can open up the side burner, take the grate out of the packing bubbles and the same thing for the burner that just easily goes into place. And then the stainless steel grate, just sets in place like that. Push the knob in place. Alright sideburn is all set.
And you got to take this ignition wire and this is like a grounding wire. And this is only on a 400 series grilles but basically it to fit through that hole and then bring it over to the manifold. And you'll see a screw just hanging out over there out in the open that screw is for this this ground wire. So you just got to go ahead and secure the wire to it. You can feed all the wires through that square hole in the second shelf.
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So this is basically the module for all the ignition wires. The sideburn one you'd have to plug in, then the rest of them just check make sure that they're they're nice and tight and that they didn't loosen up during shipment.
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those screws just go ahead and go into these holes and slide right down. But don't tighten them yet because you got to put this cover on.
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And the cover just slides in between the ignition coils and the frame. Oh, what I'm doing there is I forgot to tuck in the extra wire from the side burner. Just go ahead and tuck that into the that wire guarding I don’t know what the heck you call that. but you want to tuck it in anyway.
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Now you can tighten the screws and this is what a battery goes. On this end you just stick that that little clip onto the inside of the leg and then you can pop in pop the wires on there. This is some trim that gets installed onto the back with 2 screws.
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Go ahead and tighten those down and then there's going to be a stainless steel one that gets mounted to the front of the grill. Make sure you remove all the plastic protecting wrap this on stainless steel before you install it. Otherwise you're never going to be able to remove it completely after it's already been installed.
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Okay, next is this front cover. You have to make sure that you plug in these these two wires into the button that activates the spark for the igniters. Otherwise your igniter won't actually work. I had to pull the wire a little bit to the left because it was preventing me from getting that fully into the holes but once you do that, you can just secure it with two screws at the bottom.
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Next is back to the stand. Remove this tape and you're going to install the doors next. It's actually pretty easy to do these doors. These are just some this the hardware for the door so the handle can get screwed in. This plastic insert basically takes the screws you have to drop the screw into it so it sticks out the other end and then the screw screws into the handles.
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So you need to do that to both doors. One little tip I figured out is that if you put the screw into that plastic piece first and then you insert the plastic piece into the door, it's way easier because it can be really tricky to get the threaded portions through to stick through that hole it wants to like the screw wants to just like tip over.
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There's some plastic pieces that I just stuck into the the bottom holes. And those are just like plastic pins and then the top pins of the door are retractable on a spring. You just push those down as you're inserting the door into a stand and then it just pops into place. It actually went in nice and straight so I'm pretty impressed. Next is just these two side guards that kind of hide the tank from view. Those just pop into place. Yeah, and the sticker was upside down.
This is the warming rack. So that's how it goes on. You can see how it folds down. Now the lid can get back on there. It can be a little tricky to align the lid just make sure it's sitting nice and flush. This is where two people would come in handy. Those pins that we took out earlier. Those go back in now on both ends. And then the cotter pins can go back in as well.
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Now you can insert all your knobs. This is the drip tray that's gonna collect the drippings and this is the grease management tray or whatever it's called. But basically it diverts all the drippings into that drip tray. Then you insert the heat deflectors and then the flavorizer bars. So I was reading the book and the reason why they called flavorizer bars is because the drippings fall onto those bars and then sizzle creating some smoke in that smoke gets into your food and makes it flavorful. So that's why I call that. I was confused first and greats and then close the lid and remove the rest of the protected material from the lid.
That's about it folks. I'd appreciate it. If you give me a like on this video, subscribe to the channel. Okay, this is how the tank gets installed onto the gauge. So you’ve got to tighten down that lock then screw the regulator into the tank and tight only till it stops and then slowly
open up the valve on the tank. And this is how you light it. Just turn the knob on high and press the igniter button. And also I'll have a link in the description for this actual grill if you want to check it out for yourself.